When I was in Nepal, I was lucky enough to have a wonderful Nepali homestay experience in a small farming village about 43 kms from Kathmandu, called Patlekhet. I did this with the Patlekhet Homestay program, part of the Community Homestay Network (CHN) in Nepal. CHN is a super cool organization, started in 2012, that partners with homestays all across Nepal, helping travelers find authentic travel experiences while providing host families with a sustainable source of income. These homestays are such a special and unique way to learn about Nepali culture and lifestyles, and make new connections and friendships!
About Patlekhet
Patlekhet is a rural village situated on a large “hill” (mountain by most of the world’s standards), with stunning views of the Himalayas from anywhere you go. Primarily a farming town, you will see rolling fields, covered with different crops depending on the season, all sorts of animals, people hard at work, and children hard at play! Plus you will certainly be treated to fresh and delicious farm food! The climate in Patlekhet is warm, wet and humid in the spring/summer, dry and warm in the day but cool at night in the fall, and cool in the winter. Nonetheless, it can be a great destination any time of the year!
Other Community Homestays in Nepal
I would definitely recommend Patlekhet, but there are also tons of other excellent choices for homestay locations in Nepal! You can see the whole list here, but to name a few:
- Panauti Community Homestay: About 34 kms southeast of Kathmandu, Panauti was the first town in the Community Homestay Network. There are about 17 well-established homestays here, with more modern luxuries than some other places (even wifi!). These homestays are run by a close-knit group of women. Panauti is a small town surrounded by farmlands, ancient temples and other Newari architectural features.
- Tharu Community Homestay: Located near Chitwan National Park, this is an excellent opportunity to learn about the richness of Tharu culture, enjoy nature, go on jungle safaris, and hopefully see some wildlife!
- Lafa Community Homestay: If you are looking for a more rural homestay, than this homestay might be perfect for you! Located in the far western part of Nepal, Lafa gets very few outside visitors. It is a little harder to get to than some other places, but it’s definitely worth it for the special and unique experience you can have here!
Getting to Patlekhet
There are a few ways to get to Patlekhet from Kathmandu. The simplest but most expensive would be to hire a taxi for the whole journey (3000 – 5000 NRs). The cheapest is to bus the whole way, but you need to switch buses in Dhulikhel (less than 200 NRs). Or you can take a bus from Kathmandu to Dhulikhel and get a taxi there (800 – 1000 NRs). This is probably your best option if you want to get there without too much navigating but also don’t want to break the bank!
My Journey
I opted for busing the whole way and had a good experience. You can catch the first bus in Kathmandu from the Bir Hospital Bus stand, on the outskirts of Thamel. All you have to do is show up and tell someone you are headed to Dhulikhel. They will tell you which bus to get on. There aren’t schedules posted but I was told the bus runs often enough that you can just show up whenever. I barely had to wait at all! At some point during the ride, the bus helper will come by for money.
When I got off in Dhulikhel, I decided to walk around a bit, and grab lunch. It was already much quieter than the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu, which was nice. I actually would have liked to spend more time there. There are also some cool treks starting/ending there. Maybe next time!
To catch your next bus you have to walk back a bit from where you got dropped off and take a left on highway 6. You should see road signs to Patlekhet. After you turn the corner, you only have to go around 100 m to get to the bus stop. If you are having a hard time finding it, just ask any local person on the street. Honestly, everyone is so kind and willing to help!
When I arrived the bus was already quite full, but I managed to squeeze on, sitting backwards at the front of the bus, and holding my bag against me so it didn’t fall out the open door. It wasn’t the most comfortable, but I made it!
Arrival and First Impressions of my Nepali Homestay
When I first arrived in Patlekhet I was actually dropped off at the wrong place, but I got a very warm welcome nonetheless! I was dropped off at the HASERA Agriculture Research and Training Center (which also looks like a super cool place to stay by the way). I explained my situation and the owners of HASERA were so helpful. They called the homestay people for me, and gave me oranges and good conversation while I waited. Then Narayan, my homestay host, came to pick me up on his motorbike.
When we got to the homestay, I was welcomed with a flower necklace and a tikka on my forehead, shown my room, and given some time to settle in. My room was simple but nice with two beds and a balcony looking over the mountains. It was a beautiful spot!
After I settled in I headed back out, got to meet the rest of the family, and was treated to a delicious homemade dinner.
Nepali People I Met and Spent Time With During the Homestay
The community I stayed in had so many lovely people that went out of their way to make me feel welcome. Starting with the owner of the organic farm I got accidently dropped off at, all the way to the sisters of my host family who accompanied me on the bus journey out of town, I met so many kind people.
The host family I stayed with consisted of Narayan, his wife, their 1.5 year old son, Narayan’s sister Usha, and their parents. In Nepal it is very common for multiple generations of families to all live together. The family owned a local restaurant, which is where I would eat all my meals, and seemed to be a sort of gathering point for a lot of the community. As such, there were always people around. I especially enjoyed watching how family and friends all seemed to play an important role in watching out for/playing with the young son.
Other people I met in the community
Whenever I walked around the town on my own I seemed to end up with someone to talk to. On my first walk, I headed down the hill and met a lady named Jamuna. Her and her husband are also hosts in the Community Homestay Program. She didn’t know a ton of English, but we hung out together for awhile nonetheless and had a really nice time. She showed me the flowers around her yard and we did a bit of a photoshoot together! Then she had to start cooking, so after we picked some oranges off her trees, I sat in her kitchen with her while she cooked. I ate oranges (Suntalās) and she taught me several new Nepali words.
On another day, I headed up hill for my walk and met more lovely people who are also part of the homestay program. I was stopped by a lady working with some beans on her front porch, who ended up inviting me to sit with her. She gave me tea and more Suntalās (oranges)! Since she also didn’t speak a lot of English she called her niece Bibisha, over from next door. Bibisha and I chatted for quite awhile before she decided to join me for the rest of my walk and show me some interesting places. On the way back we went to her house and she introduced me to her mother, grandmother, sister in law, and niece. They gave me tea and a snack too! Everyone I met during my Nepali homestay experience was truly so kind and welcoming.
Activities I Did in Patlekhet
Between going on walks, meeting new people, eating delicious food, and enjoying the gorgeous mountain scenery, I also got to experience several aspects of Nepali culture during my homestay. I was shown how to make whiskey, how to cook papadams (a thin, crispy fried dough), how to milk cows, taught about the intermixing religions of the area, and got to partake in some wedding preparations. I was lucky to be there about 10 days before Usha, the sister in my host family, was going to get married. This gave me a unique opportunity to see how they prepared – from watching all the neighbours come over to get assigned roles for the wedding prep, to learning to make ceremonial bowls out of leaves.
Another thing I got to do, is visit the local school, Kalidevi Secondary School. I arrived during lunch break and ended up playing tag with the cousin of my host family and her friends! Then one of the English teachers, Sangita, came out and showed me around the school. She gave me tea, showed me the various classrooms and facilities, and chatted with me for awhile. Then I joined her in her classroom to help her students practice some English. She also told me about some of the financial struggles the school has been having, such as only 3 computers in their computer lab working, so I went back the next day to donate to the school. If you have the means to donate too, you can reach out to them via their facebook page
Food I Ate During the Homestay
Another great thing about my Nepali homestay experience was the food I got to eat. When you book, the cost includes 3 homemade meals a day, and you better come with a big appetite because they will give you a lot of food! I was constantly being offered seconds (and even thirds), that I felt bad having to refuse as the food was SO good, I was just very full! Knowing the Nepali word for tasty, pronounced “me-toe-sa” came in very handy here.
Here is some of the food I was given (that I remembered to photograph):
Overall Thoughts About My Nepali Homestay Experience
Overall, I had an amazing time during my homestay and cannot recommend the experience enough! It was really special getting to live with a local family for awhile. It was a great opportunity to see more of the local customs than I would have staying in a hotel. And I met some really lovely people! I am really happy with my decision to go to Patlekhet, and would recommend it to anyone. That said, I am sure doing a homestay in any town would be great. If and when I return to Nepal I will definitely be doing more homestays!
Not only did I have a great time, but I felt good about supporting the community I stayed in. Speaking with the community members, I heard a lot of positive things about the program. It seems to really be a win-win scenario for the hosts and the guests.
Other Things To Know Before Doing a Homestay in Nepal
Honestly, as long as you are open, adaptable, and friendly, you don’t need to worry too much about preparing for your homestay. Chances are your host family will be super lovely and welcoming, as most Nepali people seem to be! They will teach you about their culture, show you around and make you feel welcome. That said, it can be a good idea to know how to leave the town you are going to, before you arrive, just in case you are feeling uncomfortable. Though, like I said, I suspect this is pretty unlikely.
Like with any new culture, you are sure to find things that surprise you. As long as you are ready to embrace them, this is just part of the adventure! However, I made a list of some of the things that surprised me in Nepal. Knowing these things will help you prepare for your Nepali homestay, and trip to Nepal in general. See them here!
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What a fantastic experience…getting to know all the local customs and people must have been wonderful…
It was wonderful! 🙂 thanks for reading!